Bill on lead in Boulder Canyon, Colorado

Anyone who focuses even a little bit on climbing wants to climb harder. As I’m sure we all have experienced however, there comes a point when we feel like we aren’t getting better. We feel as if we need to change something about how we approach our climbing in order to make a difference and move on to the next level. I heard somewhere once that if you can proficiently and comfortably climb 5.10, you pretty much have all the physical strength you need for the next levels, the only difference is that a more refined technique is needed to succeed. I can’t validate that claim, but it does seem logical when you think about it.

I recently broke through the 5.10 barrier and started leading in the low 11’s. I have noticed that as I improve my footwork, focus, and energy conservation, the harder climbs become not only easier, but more mentally fulfilling. There is no doubt that climbing is full of problem solving situations, but these puzzles get more interesting the higher you rise on the grade ladder. The biggest thing that has helped me is begin disregarding the grade. It’s not as important as I thought it once was. Use it as nothing more than a gauge. Don’t be afraid to admit that a 5.10b you just climbed was harder than an 11a you sent last week. As I’m sure everyone who has done a bit of traveling for climbing has noticed, I have found that grades vary greatly from area to area and are very subjective. Don’t be afraid to try something that you may write off as above your level. You might find that the route works for you.

Leading at and above your limit is bound to put you into situations where you are going to fall. Knowing how to handle these situations is key to progressing and being safe. Make sure you assess every situation individually. Be as certain as you possibly can that your project is a safe one with clean falls and solid protection. This will allow you to put these things out of your mind and allow you to focus on the climbing. Another thing to help ease your mind is to take a few minutes to check over your system. Make sure your knot is secure and your belayer has everything locked down. Once this is done you should put it out of your mind. Provided you checked everything out you’ll be able to forget about your system and focus on your project.

Breaking down barriers doesn’t have to start at 5.10 either. For example I have a friend that started leading trad this summer. Up until this point leading in general was a huge wall for her to overcome. Her fear of heights wasn’t helping her progress either. One day after a particularly frightening and exposed experience in the Gunks, she decided it was time to give it a go. We picked out a well protected 5.4 route and she went for it putting all her fears and apprehensions aside. This was a pivotal moment in her climbing career, a major wall shattered thanks to a little fear giving her the inspiration to take a chance.

Finding what is holding you back and overcoming it is important to moving forward in anything. It is vital to take a step back and analyze what you are doing and how you are doing it. It is also important to ask for advice from a fellow climber or friend. They can offer a unique perspective that you may not have considered. Most importantly never give up. If it is worth achieving, then chances are it won’t come easy.

-Patrick