Fremont Canyon

Bill atop the Low Voltage Wall at Fremont Canyon

It is here that the North Platte River cuts its way through the dusty Wyoming hills to form a narrow canyon with stunning sheer granite walls.  Routes range from 40 to 400 feet.  Some spots, particularly near the bridge, require a rap in before you can climb out.  Climbers are warned not to get in over their heads near the bridge or they might be forced to swim out.

Fremont Canyon Bridge

Belay stations can also be challenging to find, and once found, it’s just as challenging to keep your rope dry.  If you can’t find a belay ledge at waters’ edge, no worries – just bring your boat.  The rushing rapids mere feet away provide one of the more unique settings for trad and sport climbing anywhere in the country.

We met a local as we parked our car.  He told us he usually parks his pickup truck near the bridge and anchors off of it.  As charming as this idea sounded, David, Maraya and I chose to climb elsewhere, about 1.4 miles upstream from the bridge on an area called “The Low Voltage Wall.”

After a five minute scramble to the base of the Canyon, we discovered the 8 or 10 sport routes we were searching for. They range from 5.7 to 5.12.  David took first lead on Low Voltage, a 5.7.  After watching David and I zoom up the route with ease, Maraya decided to send it barefoot.

Bill pulling the 1st move on Batteries Not Included

With my lead next, I jumped on Batteries Not Included, a 5.10a.  The 10 move is actually the first move off the deck and it involves a heel hook.  Some crimpers above requiring balance and technique follow, and then a fun overhang just below the bolted anchors keep the route close to 10a throughout.  It was thoroughly enjoyable.

From No Batteries, we moved to Short Circuit a 5.9, which required a bit of ingenuity to work through a face before pulling another fun roof.

Contemplating the crux on Short Circuit

We played for about two hours in the Canyon, and having worked up quite a sweat David decided it was time for a dip.  It took some cajoling, but he convinced me to do the same in the icy waters of the North Platte River.  As the sun set behind Fremont’s walls, we filmed a few impromptu beer commercials before scrambling back to the car and driving into the sunset.