Topping out at Buttermilk Falls

I sat down on a rock, stuffed my feet into my new pair of boots and stepped into my crampons. As soon as I stood up excitement filled me, After all, this would be my first time ice climbing. Brian handed me the rope and a pair of leashless tool, I tied into my harness and was ready to rock.

After a brief system check I was swinging my tools into the ice. My first climb was a bit sloppy, Being a rock climber I kept trying to edge and smear out of habit. By the end of my first pitch though, I was getting the hang of keeping my heels low.

I spent the hours following my first Climb continuously practicing my form. Fortunately I was climbing with a few guys who have been at it for many years, Their Insight and suggestions were greatly appreciated. Brian commented on how much better my form was, even after only a few hours of climbing.

Throughout the day I alternated between the leashed and leashless tools available to me. As of this writing I am leaning toward the leashed ones because for one it was nice to not have to worry about dropping a tool, and being able to rest on the straps was a nice bonus. On the other side of the coin though I could see leashless being beneficial for placing screws since you would not have to unleash your hand to make a placement.

As the day came to an end, the feared Christmas weekend Nor-easter began to blow in. Though I was only 50 feet from the road, the deteriorating conditions gave me an exhilarating feeling, as if what I was doing was far more epic than it actually was, I was elated.

Tying in.

Near dark I climbed a final pitch, but this time I went all the way to the anchor. Since the guys were kind enough to let me climb with them, I felt it my duty to dismantle their anchors. With both top ropes broken down, I threw the rope around a tree, sent the rope over the edge, and rappelled back down the waterfall.

With another great first experience behind me, and so much climbable Ice within a 30 minute drive, I am ready for more ice climbing. Beyond just having a great day and feeling really comfortable on the ice, I feel that my choice in boots and crampons seem pretty solid so far.

The Grivel G14’s have replaceable vertical front points and the leather La Sportiva Makalu boots I picked up kept my toes warm and comfortable, But the real test will come when the temperature plunges.

-Patrick