Moab and Arches

MOAB, Utah – The original plan was to climb Red Rocks, just outside of Vegas. But with triple digit temperatures forecast, Patrick and I headed north and east in search of cooler climates to climb. We passed up Zion (too hot), and Mount Hayden along the Grand Canyon North Rim (too hot and too far), and pressed on all the way to Moab, arriving just after sunset. After a warm, windy and restless night at the local KOA, I was anxious to climb. Moab is a climber’s paradise, with so many options it is almost impossible to choose where to start. But it was still sweltering, and as usual our compressed schedule left us little time to explore. A guide book from the local climbing shop, Gearheads, directed us to a spot in the shade where we could climb comfortably during the cooler morning hours. With water bottles filled, we drove eight miles west of town along the banks of the muddy Colorado River and across from one of Moab’s signature climbing areas, the imposing and sun drenched Wall Street. We continued away from the river down into Hunter Canyon along precarious switchbacks until we came upon the quiet crag of windgate sandstone known as the Ice Cream Parlor.

We chose a slabby section with mostly sport routes just to the right of three climbers who were already there when we arrived. Patrick took first lead on a 5.7 called Left Slab. He set anchor, then cleaned the five quickdraws on his way down so I could get my first Moab lead as well. It was quick work. As we climbed, I watched enviously the three climbers to our left struggling a bit on some tougher top rope only routes that they had previously set. They must have known what I was thinking, because without prompting, they asked if we wanted to climb on their ropes. I eagerly agreed. First up was Parlor Game. To say this 5.9 was crimpy would be generous. The start was blank, and a crux some twenty feet up made me feel I got my money’s worth. Patrick and I finished on another 5.9 that offered an off-width start followed by some good hand jams. Higher up, I tried an alternate finish on a face just as blank as Parlor Game. We both snapped pictures from the top of Parlor Game as the sun began to blanket the area. Our Moab climbing appetites whet and the sun beating our backs, we thanked our fellow climbers, gathered our gear and departed. Next stop was Arches National Park, just a few miles north of Moab. I had my sights on some climbs here too. Though all named geological features are off limits to climbers, the Park does offer some great climbing, provided of course you have sandstone colored chalk. We did not. But by now it was also mid afternoon and blazing hot, so Patrick and I simply drove the park roads and stared up at the unique and beautiful features. We did get out and hike a bit and took plenty of pictures. Then it was back on the road.

We had hoped to visit nearby Canyonlands National Park, but that break-neck schedule we were trying to keep meant the Ralston Route would have to wait for another trip. Instead, the endpoint of our day’s journey was Montrose, Colorado, home of Charlie and Diane Winger (Check out the Winger Bookstore). Charlie and Diane treated us to dinner at one of their favorite local establishments, and we spent the remainder of the evening visiting and talking about climbing and life (which are basically one and the same) with our most gracious hosts.